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I stood in the pre-dawn cold, hoodie drawn tight, checking my local for signs of life. As I pondered whether I should paddle out or go back to bed, a peculiar sight caught my attention. A smiling man ...

Just a note to those of you who read me but don’t surf: We use wax on the top of our boards to keep us from slipping off. It’s not like on skis where you use it on the bottoms to go faster. OK, just ...